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A Diary from Kabul -
Diary Events in June & July
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28th June
Today has been a very special day. We went on a city tour of Kabul, with our
security drivers, with a purpose to orientate ourselves around the city.
However, much more than orientation was achieved, as a new world was opened up
before our very eyes the past, present and even future of Afghanistan whizzed
by us in the forms of old palaces, buildings ridden with bullet holes, markets
and shops complete with vendors and shoppers, all trying to get a good deal and
the commercialised section of Kabul modelling fancy new office blocks and
massive billboards advertising the latest mobile phone company. It occurred to
me today that Kabul is a haven for tourists and has so much to offer, and I hope
that one day tourism will flourish in this fascinating city. Among many places
we visited, one of the most breathtaking was the tomb of the former king of
Afghanistan, Nadir Khan (father of Zahir Shah). Traces of the war between jehadi
factions are evident. Although Nadir Khan himself was a criminal and ruthless
king, people still suffer from seeing the fundamentalists' destruction of his
grave. Many say that these Afghan kings were one thousand times more honorable
than the fundamentalists. We then took a drive by Dar-ul-Aman palace in Kabul,
which, like many other historical riches of Afghanistan, was heavily damaged
during the wars. Anyone wanting a glimpse of what a lawless Afghanistan might
look like need only take a drive along Dar-ul-Aman. I have spoken to many
Afghans who described to me what the avenue was like many years ago, with its
rows of tall, white-stemmed poplars as one of the most beautiful in the world.
In the early 1990's, fighting left the road in ruins. Today, there's not a tree
in sight.
2nd July
An interesting day at the hospital today. A woman gave birth in the parking lot
after just arriving in a taxi cab. I heard there was a commotion going on so I
asked one of the midwives to go and assist. After following her, she came
running back in with a tiny bundle wrapped in a blanket. Myself and another
midwife went outside to help the lady come into the hospital, with a view to
getting her into the delivery room to deliver her placenta. After she was
wheeled into the delivery room, I was stopped to talk with someone in the
corridor, when 2 minutes later this same woman started walking back out of the
delivery room, with a midwife following her. Wondering what was going on, I was
told this woman did not want to stay in the delivery room to deliver her
placenta. She went back outside and despite trying to persuade her otherwise,
she was adamant about not going back into the hospital. So, I thought, we would
just have to deliver the placenta outside. It was honestly the strangest thing I
have ever experienced. One midwife came back with a black bin bag, while the
mother got down on the ground to deliver her placenta. So here I was, with
another midwife holding up this ladys burka as a screen so that all of the
people coming and going at the entrance of the hospital could not see what was
going on! I was told later that this woman had mental difficulties and also that
she had left her 1 ½ year old child at home which is why she was so desperate to
get back to her house I went to check on her newborn baby and it surprisingly
had no problems at all, so after an ordeal which latest about 20 mins, the woman
and her new child were back in a taxi going home
.I have come to the conclusion
that there are many miracles happening here.
4th July
Another very special day. I have been invited to attend a 3-day workshop about
Advocacy and Safe Motherhood, sponsored by the Afghan Midwives Association (AMA)
and have been honoured to meet the president of the Association, Pashtun Asfir.
Pashtun has been named International Midwife of 2006 and has been the founder of
the AMA since its conception in 2004 and has also been a pioneer for midwives
all across Afghanistan. To see a room full of Afghan women working hard to
define a definition of advocacy and strategies to decrease maternal mortality in
Afghanistan has been truly humbling it has made me feel so proud to be a part
of this historic occasion and also made me feel so privileged to be in a room
full of woman who, despite facing adversity and despair many times are still
wanting and willing to become advocates for a new, brighter Afghanistan. After
coming back from the workshop to the house for lunch, we received a phone call
that a bomb had exploded outside one of the entrances to the Presidential
Palace, which is on our route to work and thus we were not permitted to go back
to the hospital in the afternoon. My initial reaction was not fear, but a small
loss of hope for the Afghan people after having been part of a truly inspiring
seminar with bright and hopeful Afghan women, the reality of a diminished
security had sunk in and I realised that I have never ever had to let a lack of
security stand in the way of accomplishing my goals. It was at that moment that
I realised how truly fortunate I have been to grow up in a country where I have
never had my human rights nor freedom taken away.
5th July
Another two bombs exploded this morning we learned of the news on the way to
another meeting and at lunch were again advised to stay at the house for the
afternoon. Whilst I was not worried about my own personal safety, the rumours
were swiftly escalating that more bombs were expected over the course of the
day. So, another afternoon spent in the safety of the house we have set up a
ping-pong table now so a few games of that were enough to make the time go by!
14th July
Life in Kabul appears to be back to normal no problems with security and after
a few days of restricted movement we were allowed to return to our daily
routine. Today I went up to ISAF to play some volleyball it is turning into an
enjoyable weekly event and nice to just be able to wear some shorts and a tank
top without worrying about local culture! ISAF is like a home away from home for
me it is nice to visit the compound and see some friendly faces, and seeing
the familiar British uniform patrolling the streets of Kabul makes it feel much
safer. Local people I have spoken to are all grateful for ISAF being here I am
sure that the media only portrays a small amount of what the coalition forces
are achieving, but in reality they are doing so much for the local population in
terms of raising money for schools and hospitals and making regular visits to
local communities. I am reminded everyday that if it were not for the efforts of
ISAF, people like me would not be able to come here and assist in building
capacities for Afghans, so that they will one day enjoy the freedom and
prosperity that we have all begun to take for granted.
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